Pomellato founder Pino Rabolini hailed from a long line of goldsmiths. In 1967, however, he broke from tradition to test his hypothesis that a playful pret-a-porter approach and avant-garde eye could shake up the stodgy fine art jewelry sphere. Rabolini’s hunch proved correct.
For six decades now, his Milanese house has adorned cultural icons with inventive designs setting colorful gems set amongst Pomellato’s signature, rich rose gold. Their Nudo ring in particular has become a cult classic. Helmut Newton shot Pomellato’s early black and white campaigns, but today the house experiments with advancements like artificial intelligence. Still, Pomellato remains true to Rabolini’s daring vision by periodically returning to their most legendary silhouettes.
The exhibition’s outdoor entryway. Image: Pomellato.
The luxury jeweler is now ready for its first retrospective, which just opened at Shanghai’s Fosun Art Foundation this past weekend. The exhibition, “Art & Jewelry: Pomellato’s Legacy of Creativity and Craftsmanship, From 1967 to Today,” showcases over 100 mesmerizing jewels alongside rarely-displayed archival campaigns shot by Lord Snowdon, Peter Lindbergh and more over the years. Alba Cappellieri, head of jewelry design at the Polytechnic University of Milan, curated this ultra-luxe showcase.
A photo from Michel Comte’s 1994-95 Pomellato campaign features here to the left amongst the exhibition. Image: Pomellato.
The exhibition opened to the public on November 3, and kicked off with a glitzy gala the night before. Acclaimed pianist Wu Muye and the Shanghai Theater Academy both performed. Star-studded attendees included Hong Kong actress Janice Man, Winter Olympics champion Yang Yang, and fashion columnist Teresa Cheung.
A hallway within the show leading towards a glamor shot from one campaign circa 1970. Image: Pomellato.
Italian photographer Gian Paolo Barbieri’s 1971 shot of actress Lilly Bistrattin wearing Pomellato’s iconic Wave Collection greets guests entering into the show’s red lacquered exterior portal. The spectacle begins with an ode to Milan, before immersing viewers in the aesthetics of each decade in Pomellato’s existence. The 1970s area highlights “bold and highly creative chains that epitomize the era’s free-spirited aesthetic,” Pomellato’s press release explains. The 1980s installment embodies the period’s “audacious spirit” through vivid hues. The 1990s-themed area remembers third wave feminism “through generous, sculptural volumes in jewelry design.”
“Art & Jewelry” concludes with an eye towards the future. Chinese artist Chen Man, who has photographed the likes of Grimes, encapsulates society’s more expansive ideas about femininity through Pomellato’s latest Iconica line. Alberto Maria Colombo—the talent behind their AI ad campaign last year—has joined fellow Milanese artist Anna Paladini in crafting “an artistic experience” intent on “underscoring AI-generated portraits encompassing the multifaceted nature of Pomellato’s timeless women.”
Chen Man’s contribution to the show, shot this year. © Chen Man.
“We are thrilled to share our passion, craftsmanship, and joyful spirit through this beautifully curated exhibition, inspiring a new audience to embrace our jewels as empowering statements of personal style,” Pomellato group CEO Sabina Belli remarked in the release.
“Art & Jewelry: Pomellato’s Legacy of Creativity and Craftsmanship, From 1967 to Today” remains on view through November 24.