There are two routes a brand and artist can take for collaborations. One where the artist holds his nose to make a buck, splats an image on a T-shirt, chucks it on the runway, and heads for the door. Or there is the road certainly less traveled, fully intertwining his vision with the brand’s codes and aesthetic. Homme Plissé Issey Miyake took the latter route at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris, presenting a collection that was a harmonious pairing with the French artist and designer Ronan Bouroullec.

Ronan Bouroullec’s brushstrokes adorn the Winter 2024 collection. Courtesy of Issey Miyake.

The winter 2024 collection was dubbed “Immersed in the Wilds of Creativity.” It’s jumping-off point was Bouroullec’s drawings of brushstrokes, the perfect complement for the signature Miyake pleats. Bouroullec also contributed to the scenography. Some of his work lined the runway walls, paired with Miyake garments mounted like textile sculptures.

Models file out of the Homme Plissé show. Courtesy of Issey Miyake.

Models emerged wearing clothes that were pleated canvases for the stroke patterns, colorful daubs punctuating the austere designs. Added to the brushstroke elements seemed to be a theme of fabulous Bedouin utopia.

“It is the synergy as well as the distance between us that have made this project both inspiring and rewarding,” Bouroullec said in a statement about working with the design team.

A detail of the textural landscape of the Winter 2024 collection. Courtesy of Issey Miyake.

Bouroullec was formerly partnered with his brother Erwan, and reached the top echelon of the design world. Their work is in the permanent collections of the Centre Pompidou, the Art Institute of Chicago, the Design Museum in London, and MoMa.

Ronan Bouroullec’s work adorns the wall of the Palais de Tokyo at the Homme Plissé Issey Miyake show. Courtesy of Issey Miyake.

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