A Hungry Art Lover’s Guide to the Best Food at Frieze New York
Here's some deliciousness we found.
Frieze New York is in full swing, and in addition to all the amazing art to be seen (see Ben Davis’s Standout Artworks Amid the Chaos of Frieze New York 2015), there’s plenty of delicious food to be had (see Roberta’s, Milk Bar, and Frankies Spuntino Headline Frieze New York Food Vendors). As we did last year (see What To Eat During Frieze Week When You’ve Had Your Fill of Art), artnet News rounded up a selection of dishes from the Frieze restaurants. Here’s our take on what to eat on Randall’s this weekend.
Back for its fourth-consecutive year under the tent, Frankies Spuntino wins the day with its hearty Italian pastas. artnet News sampled a seasonally-appropriate number featuring bright yellow noodles with fresh green peas and nutty pistachios, topped with just the right amount of grated cheese. Amid all the chaos that is Frieze, you really can’t go wrong with perfectly-executed Italian food.
It’s no surprise given his newly-celebrated “dad bod” physique, but at yesterday’s opening preview, Leonardo DiCaprio’s Frieze restaurant of choice was hipster favorite Roberta’s, which has been slinging pies on the deck outside the tent since the inaugural 2012 edition (see Leonardo DiCaprio, Mike Myers, and Arnold Lehman Grace Celebrity VIP Frieze New York Preview). The popular Brooklyn restaurant churns out nicely charred, oozingly cheesy pies like clockwork, thanks to the magic of its portable pizza oven. And the view, overlooking the East River, can’t be beat.
Least Healthy Salad:
Court Street Grocers takes the salad to the next level by adorning leafy greens and herbs with beautifully folded slices of cured Italian meats, a briney olive relish, and grated cheese. It’s a behemoth, and more than one fairgoer asked us where we had gotten it. There are also delicious, unusual sandwiches with fun names like “the Droopy” (roast beef), and off-beat fillings, like the one we sampled with sweet potatoes, goat cheese, pickled red onion, and arugula.
The fair’s newest vendor, Dimes, takes a decidedly healthier approach to cooking than its indulgent counterparts. When artnet News stepped into the Dimes booth bearing a tray of goodies from Frankies and Court Street Grocers, we were immediately reproached by one visitor for bringing such enticing fare into “this hippie dippie booth.” Lucky for him, there is some magical flavor alchemy at work in the Dimes kitchen, transforming an unpromising array of raw vegetables and bland-looking quinoa into an addictively tasty and extremely enjoyable salad—as long as you can get over the $16 price tag. Skip their $12 chia pudding though, unless you are in the mood for a less flavorful, more gelatinous rice pudding.
Morgenstern’s Finest Ice Cream didn’t make it up in time for the preview, although we hear good things about their dairy treats, touted by Frieze as “the city’s most original and contemporary ice creams.” Hopefully, they’ll have more success getting to Randalls for the rest of the fair.
artnet News didn’t get a chance to try anything from Marlow & Sons, but we did snag a copy of the menu, which features such delicacies as oysters on the half shell, chicken liver pate, and a $30 plate of cured meats. In case you didn’t know it was fancy, there’s also an $18 negroni, and a Mexican Coke for $6.
Frankie’s just may be the most popular joint at the fair, with long waits for a coveted lunch table, but just outside the restaurant is a relaxing backyard beer garden from Prime Meats. Kick back with a beer and a perfectly grilled sausage, served up with a nice German-style slaw, and let the stress of non-stop Frieze week madness simply melt away.
When you’ve spent too many hours on your feet, wandering the aisles until your eyeballs glaze over, restore your crashing blood sugar with the oh-so-sweet concoctions of Momofuku Milk Bar. This is milk and cookies where even the milk gets the dessert treatment, soaking up the sugary goodness of breakfast cereal. The sprinkle-studded cake truffles are a pure sugar rush; for a more sophisticated snack try the salty-sweet sensation of the compost cookie, loaded with potato chips and pretzel bits, in addition to more traditional chocolate chips.
Yes, there is a VIP room, run by NeueHouse with chef Chris Bradley. No, you’re not getting in. Don’t even think about it.
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